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Sunday, July 28, 2013

Cats of Torre Argentina

I'm in Rome, in the middle of a heat wave apparently. I feel like a vampire each time I step from the cover of shade into light, burning up under the glare of the Roman sun. I feel sorry for the few dogs I see out, all panting miserably, feet burning up from the black stone roads. One woman had her sheepdog mix just inside a department store. It was lying on the cooler marble floor, but still panting barely able to raise its head. She was petting it and explaining to the security guard that her dog was too hot and had to come inside for a bit. I think he understood and let them be.

There's a historical site - well, pretty much everything and everywhere in Rome is a historical site - called Torre Argentina, where ancient columns and sections of wall still stand. It's an odd bit of land because it's a block in the middle of the city which looks like an archeological dig.


I think it used to be a fairly major temple or something a couple of thousand years ago. Now it's a place where abandoned cats are given sanctuary and it's the center of Rome's largest spay/neuter/release program. It's run by a group of very dedicated women - they are somewhat disparagingly called "gattare" by the locals - who are presently fighting to keep the shelter open under threat of eviction by some city official who doesn't want them squatting there. I'm not going to go into too much more detail because I'm still on vacation but if you're interested, here's their website: www.romancats.com.

Here are some of the cats in residence in the underground, air conditioned room cobbled out of a cavity in the exterior wall from the archeological excavation. Many of the cats look like they've lived a rough life, and a couple are soon coming to their end when they will be euthanized - but not while they can still purr and eat:









6 comments:

  1. I lived in Rome for two years and just came back to Canada. You're right, the women there are dedicated to caring for the cats. When I visited the sanctuary the smell was terrible but it didn't even phase them. There was a cat with a neurological disease where its balance was totally off but they let him putter around with dignity. I think a small donation would be greatly appreciated by them.

    On another note, if you read this, I really recommend the restaurant Meridionale in Trastevere. The food is fantastic but be prepared for a long service.

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  2. This is a fascinating look at the famed Roman cats, Fred, and the photos are amazing closeups. You've captured their street experience and their weariness, and in most cases their subpar health. What stories they must have! They live rough but free, and they must work hard at survival. Thanks for this glimpse of their lives....

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  3. Breaks my heart <3

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  4. Thank you for this. Enjoy your vacation.

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  5. I remember watching a show about the worls stray cat population, last year...they featured this particular place in Rome. They are some very dedicated women there, and while hte cats may not have a great life, they are cared for. I don't think cats ask for more than that really.

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  6. 10 years ago my wife and I honeymooned in Italy and stumbled upon this place. We weren't involved in animal welfare at all at the time but were struck by the strangeness of the ruins, along with the huge number of cats that colonized there. Thanks for sharing this (it was sort of a forgotten memory and yeah, I remember the wear on their faces that you captured so brilliantly.

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